Grizzly Lake with Eric

Hobo Gulch to Grizzly Lake and back.

Eric was most daring and wanted to go backpacking. I was very grateful, as I'm not sure I'd have gone alone. I knew he wanted to eat well, so we packed up Pedro and Charlie with 5 days of food (good food), a small dutch oven and we were off!
After a long drive past Weaverville, Helena and on to the Hobo Gulch trailhead. We started about 11 am and enjoyed the views of the river immensely. River crossings weren't a problem and the goats only sunk up to the shoulder. They were champs. North Fork of the Trinity River was gorgeous and looked like scenes out of Lord of the Rings - ? In August the water was low; some areas looked like they would be pretty treacherous crossings during high water, with water marks 2-3 feet higher along the shore. A high water trail is available early on the trail on the east shore.

We reached Jorstad's Cabin and found fellow hikers there, so we move on to Peg Leg and made camp there along the crook of the river. This was a beautiful little camp. Not much grass for the goats though, so we walked them back to the meadow for graze. That night we had T-bones medium well, grilled over coals and baked potatoes in the coals. We shared our cornbread (perfectly cooked with IHop jelly on top) with the folks at Jorstad's cabin. They were almost out of food and seemed to enjoy it!

Next morning we were off fairly early and made the climb up to the meadow. As we passed through China Gardens, there was an eery feeling; very lonely. As we read the history of the area, and of the slaughter of the chinese there by "white miners", I thought perhaps that was why. Amazing piles of stones to reroute the water for panning and mining.


From here the trail ascends up the south-facing slope of Grizzly Canyon fairly continuously with a few switchbacks through oak and other deciduous trees. This stretch is a good morning hike as the lower altitude lends to hot afternoons - especially facing south. There is a great little campsite at the junction of the ______ trail with a nice small creek. Bob's Farm trail angles off to the south before you reach the junction of China Creek Trail and the increase in hikers that trail brings.


The trail continues through beautiful forests, with many reminders of the fire of 2002? that raced up the canyon. Waterfalls and ice-cold pools, and finally Thompson Peak is seen. This part of the hike ascends roughly 3000 feet over 7-8 miles.

Grizzly Meadows is an Eden-like beautiful meadow and forest surrounded on three sides by high canyon cliffs. The waterfall graces the eastern end of the canyon and is always heard. There is a nice small campsite at the western entrance of the meadow, with a handy, pretty creek. Not too private however, as the trail goes right throught the middle. We stayed in a horse-camp about 200 yards into Grizzly Meadow, on the south side of the creek. There is another horse-camp about 100 yards south of this camp, nearer the canyon wall - more secluded, but not as well furnished. A great hiker's camp is found on the trail nearer the east end of the meadow, not too far from the boulders.

We dined next on a rice-vegetable combination with Taco seasoning and beef chunks. Ymmmmm. Rice pudding for desert! Eric was impressed.

The next morning was time for exploring. We unfortunately followed some youthful fellows with extraordinarily large packs up the scramble and to the right. Some have termed this route "Dead man's gulch" or some term conveying similar optimism. This route leads to a vertical section of about 5 feet that requires climbing; then a loose scree above this for 30 feet or so. Pedro and Charlie couldn't make it up here, so we moved on to see the lake and then come back for them. Without us however, they were well motivated and somehow made it up the chute and were half way to Ceasar's Peak when we came back. Glad we found them. They were most glad to see their humans again.





On the scramble, to the north of the falls, there is a green "tarmack" that leads you up the side of the canyon (see above photo). Follow the cairns carefully and you will avoid the "right" route, and instead be lead to an ominous looking chute to the left instead. This leftward route is much safer and requires only minimal climbing. A nice switchback trail follows up to the falls and lake. The wind was hefty and one could lose a hat here, so strap it on!

The falls, and the leap over them, has to be the most simple looking but "scary if you think about it" experience of the hike or the Trinities for that matter. 2-3 foot jump, but don't miss! The falls, lake and mountain have to be one of the prettiest and grandest sites I have seen ever. Well worth the 18 miles and scramble. Grizzly Lake is near 200 feet deep and receives constant run-off from the snowpack above. It nests atop the 800 foot canyon/cliff face and is cold, cold, cold.



Thompson Peak is grand - guarding the southeast face of this exalted circ.

We followed the cairns back down the scramble faithfully and they led us to the more westerly chute ("left" on the way "up") and we descended without incident. This all could be a little dicey with snow or ice. Charlie (below) handled it all in style. The caprine friends really enjoy the rock and climbing. One has to be constantly vigilant for dogs however. Good hikers pick up on it and restrain the dogs from chasing down the goats. If you do encounter a dog, try and keep the goats close to you in a pack and the dog usually pulls up and can be deterred with a walking pole, etc.

We cooked Dutch Oven again that night, something good, but can't remember just what? I do know our cinammon rolls exploded out of the cardboard twisty-can. Altitude and yeast and warm days are an amazing thing. But they were good! The goats curled up around the firepit during the night and didn't seem too bothered by the incredibly pesky and most bold deer.

We chose the tent to avoid the mosquito parade during the night.

Next morning we descended the canyon, taking in the beautiful display of flowers and butterflies. Jorstad Cabin was a welcome sight, with its benches, tables, firepit and swimming-hole. The water has warmed quite a bit in the sun during the last 10 miles or so; it is an excellent place to cool off and wash off. I am amazed that Mr and Mrs Jorstad put up with 24/7 river noise! Probably tuned it out over time. The sound of tumbling river rocks when all else is quiet sounds amazingly like a crowd of people conversing. Many times I looked up and expected to see a group of hikers approaching.

The dutch oven came through the last night, with sauerkraut, chopped kielbasa and dried apple slices. Dinner rolls for a side with some I-Hop jelly left.

The hike out in the morning was beautiful.

Gorgeous views of North Fork of Trinity. The trail cuts into the side of the canyon and drops steeply to the river. We packed out, drove out and had fast food in Weaverville. Can't wait to go back!